Let's spend one day in Karlovy Vary, the Czech Republic's most famous spa town! We will walk along the Teplá River through the town center together, discovering the best spots that the city has to offer its visitors.
Our walk begins at the Thermal Hotel and continues to the Grandhotel Pupp. We take the funicular to the Diana lookout tower, hike down through the forest, and return to the Thermal on the other side of the Teplá River.
This walking tour will last approximately half a day, with time for coffee and dessert at the café in Grahdhotel Pupp!
The last time I visited Karlovy Vary was with my two lovely cousins in September 2022. My description of our walk around the town covers this time, including the photos I took and placed in the article.
Hotel Thermal
Let's set off to the historical spa area from the place where the famous Thermal Hotel stands.
You might be wondering what this building is doing here, a typical example of brutalist architecture that even many tourist guides describe as unpleasant, if not ugly.
Let me tell you that the hotel was built at the turn of the 1960s and 1970s, at a time when Czechoslovakia was ruled by the communist regime. From the very beginning, the hotel was intended to be the hub of the world-famous Film festival, which has been held in Vary since 1966.
Until 1989, the festival's film selection was affected by the former Soviet Union's political goals, to which Czechoslovakia was a de facto subject. After the Velvet Revolution in 1989, when Czechoslovakia emerged from Soviet influence, film stars from all over the world began to visit Karlovy Vary.
The most distinguished guests often stay at the Grandhotel Pupp, as evidenced by the golden bricks of fame embedded in the pavement in front of the hotel (see further in the article, I took a few photos of them!).
Every year, festival guests arrive in front of the Thermal Hotel in early July, exit their limos, and stroll the red carpet to the hotel door, waving to the masses of their fans, who are always present around in great numbers.
We took advantage of the opportunity to visit the Thermal Hotel's reception and experience what the stars do when they arrive in Karlovy Vary!
Dvorakovy sady
After you've enjoyed the movie glory at the Thermal Hotel, continue along the trail and you'll see a relaxing park with a small lake on your right.
Antonin Dvorak, whose name the park bears, was a famous Czech composer, one of the greatest musical geniuses of human history. Dvorak also worked briefly in the USA, where he composed the New World Symphony. It was premiered in 1893 at Carnegie Hall.
Park colonnade
Just beyond the Dvorak Sady, the impressive Colonnade Park awaits you. The richly decorated colonnade is made of cast iron and houses two hot mineral springs: the Park Spring and the Snake Spring.
Grab a spa cup and experience the mineral water that made Karlovy Vary famous! Be careful, as the local mineral springs are hot and may have a peculiar flavor for first-timers.
My tip: Visit the colonnade at sunset if you can. The building is beautifully lit and offers a charming atmosphere.
Mill colonnade
Follow the Teplá River further after sampling the Snake Spring. Just a short two- or three-minute stroll will bring you to the Mill Colonnade, widely considered to be one of Karlovy Vary's most architecturally significant structures and the largest colonnade in the town.
The colonnade in pseudo-Renaissance style in the city center was built at the end of the 19th century and houses five mineral springs, which are freely accessible to any visitor who is willing to sample them.
Market colonnade
Only a few steps separate the Mill Colonnade from another one, this time the Market Colonnade.
The white-colored Market colonnade with richly carved elements makes you feel as if you are in a fairy tale. You may be surprised when I tell you that it is built of wood in the so-called Swiss style.
The colonnade stands on the site of the original medieval marketplace, after which it was named. Such is typical, various springs may be found therein, including the oldest mineral spring in Karlovy Vary, which is called after Charles IV, the Czech king and Roman emperor who founded the spa town in the 14th century.
Hot spring colonnade
Probably the most famous spring in Karlovy Vary is called Vřídlo (Hot Spring). It's hidden inside the Spring Colonnade, a futuristic glass and concrete structure right across the street from the Market Colonnade.
Unique in the natural world, the geyser of the Vřídlo Hot Spring erupts at a rate of about 2,000 liters per minute and, because to the mineral water's tremendous pressure, can reach a height of 12 meters.
Be sure to stop by and see the Hot Spring. I guarantee that you will be amazed at the work of the natural spring that gushes upwards at irregular intervals.
Fun fact: The traditional Run of the Waiters is regularly held in Karlovy Vary during the Film Festival. All waiters start from the Hot Spring and continue towards the Mill Colonnade. This event honors a popular Czech film called Vrchní, prchni (I love, LOVE this movie!).
Church of St. Mary Magdalene
Directly opposite the Hot Spring Colonnade, accessible by a hundred stairs, lies the Church of St. Mary Magdalene. The magnificent Baroque church was constructed in the 1730s on the design of famed Czech architect Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer.
My tip: If you have half an hour of free time or the weather is rainy outside, visit the church underground. The foundations of this Baroque structure can be seen here, as well as a unique Holy Grave, a superb crypt with a funeral chapel, or a preserved path that led around the original Gothic church.
Stara Louka
Just beyond the Hot Spring Colonnade, the spa promenade continues along the Tepla River to the Grandhotel Pupp. The promenade is flanked by spectacular spa buildings from the late 18th century, each with its own unique architecture.
This street is called Stara Louka, and it underwent a major transformation in 2009. The street received new cobbles, including various accessories such as drinking fountains, information stands, and two chimes built into the pavement, popular with children and adults alike.
We took it easy as we strolled along Stara Louka street, taking in the wonderful setting. Do the same!
City theater
If you stay overnight in Karlovy Vary, don't miss a visit to the Karlovy Vary Municipal Theatre. The beautiful theatre building not only offers cultural experiences but also impresses with its architecture and stunning interior decoration.
Grandhotel Pupp
As we near the end of our stroll through the old town, we come to the majestic Grandhotel Pupp, arguably the most well-known hotel in all of the Czech Republic.
The hotel was built in 1892-1893 according to the plans of Viennese architects Příhoda and Němeček in the style of the sumptuous French Neo-Renaissance.
Today, Grandhotel Pupp ranks among the most iconic spots in Karlovy Vary. The hotel offers first-class services and, thanks to that, it accommodates the greatest stars and celebrities who visit the city during the Film Festival.
On the pavement in front of the hotel, there are golden bricks with the names of prominent guests who have stayed here, e.g., Franz Kafka or Karl Marx. During my last visit to Karlovy Vary, I took pictures of some of these bricks, and I am bringing you a collage of them.
We didn't miss the opportunity and had coffee and dessert in the Pupp café, located on the corner of the hotel. Definitely do it too, the atmosphere inside the cafe is worth it, plus the prices are not exorbitant.
If you are willing to splurge for a luxurious stay in Karlovy Vary, your search can end at the Grandhotel Pupp. On the other hand, I spoke to the front desk staff, and they said that the hotel offers interesting discounts on rooms during the off-peak season, roughly from November to March.
Diana observation tower
Visiting Karlovy Vary offers more than just taking in the city's colonnades and other beautiful architecture. The surrounding landscape is breathtaking, and the hills around offer views down to the city.
The most famous way to reach the hills above the town is by funicular, which takes you up to the Diana lookout tower.
The funicular starts just behind the Grandhotel Pupp in Mariánská ulička. The cable car is open all year round, except for December 24th, when Czechs celebrate Christmas. It goes up every 15 minutes, with a maximum capacity of around 40 people, so you definitely won't be waiting long.
We opted for a one-way ride up, going back down by one of the hiking trails that lead through the spa forests.
The ride up takes around three minutes, and when you get to the top of the forested hill, the brick Diana overlook will be looming over you. There is no charge to visit the tower. The most physically fit can walk up the stairs, while others use the elevator within the tower.
Visit the tower's observation deck if the weather permits. It has a stunning panorama over the woods and the city of Karlovy Vary!
A restaurant right next to the lookout tower is popular with both spa customers and locals. Behind the restaurant, you will find a mini zoo and a butterfly house, a great activity for families with children!
We went down the blue hiking trail. The path leads past the famous Jeleni skok lookout and ends behind the Grandhotel Pupp, exactly where we got on the funicular.
At the end of our walk around Karlovy Vary, we headed back along the other side of the Tepla river to the parking lot where we left our car. In total, including a stop at the Grandhotel Pupp's café, our stroll lasted roughly five hours.
Authentic Czech souvenirs
You can't leave Karlovy Vary without a souvenir that will remind you of this charming town with its beautiful colonnades!
In the historic district, you will find several shops selling unique trinkets and keepsakes. You can't visit the area without sampling the round spa wafers they sell there. If you like them, buy a packet or two to take with you.
Another good choice is a spa cup with a special spout. You won't see similar porcelain anywhere else, and the most interesting sights of Karlovy Vary are usually depicted on the cup. You will have a beautiful memory of the time when you sampled the mineral water from the local thermal springs.
For bold spirits, there is Becherovka, a herbal liqueur whose production is connected with Karlovy Vary.
Becherovka herbal liqueur
The iconic square bottle in green and the herbal liqueur, nicknamed the thirteenth spring of Karlovy Vary, this is Becherovka! The legendary liqueur was born at the beginning of the twentieth century by pharmacist Jan Becher, who sold it as stomach drops.
At present, Becherovka is produced in a local liquor factory, which you can visit during your stay in the spa town. The liqueur is famous not only in the Czech Republic but also around the world. Only two employees, who have signed a confidentiality agreement, know the secrets of the production and the Becherovka recipe!
If you are a fan of fine drinking, a bottle of Becherovka is the perfect souvenir to take away from Karlovy Vary.
Hot springs
Karlovy Vary's hot thermal springs make it an ideal destination for visitors seeking peaceful and convalescent stays utilizing natural healing resources.
Thermal water is used for mineral baths and drinking cures. If you take a walk through the Karlovy Vary colonnades, you will come across the drinking fountains with the thermal springs. Twelve of them are intended for drinking.
Don't forget to take a spa cup with a spout on your way to the springs so you can have a taste!
Charles IV
The history of Karlovy Vary dates back to the 14th century when the first healing springs were discovered here by Charles IV, the Czech king, and Roman emperor.
Legend has it that Charles' horse was injured while hunting in the local woods. When the animal dipped its leg in one of the warm springs that bubbled up from the ground around, the horse miraculously recovered.
King Charles then built a spa on the site, where he would go to recover when necessary. If you're wondering which spring it was that Charles first discovered, then head to the Market Colonnade. Here, look for the Charles IV Spring.
Czech spa towns
In 2021, Karlovy Vary, together with the neighboring spa towns of Marianske Lazne and Frantiskovy Lazne, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Along with eight other European spa towns, Karlovy Vary has become a proud member of The Great Spa Towns of Europe.
Spa treatment
If you are looking for a reason to visit Karlovy Vary, one is quite obvious. For centuries, people have been coming to the town to improve their health. For treatment, thermal springs with a high mineral content are used here.
Spa guests come to Vary on the basis of a doctor's recommendation to undergo a comprehensive spa treatment lasting two to three weeks. If you just want a taste of the traditional Czech spa experience, many hotels offer a shortened stay with basic treatments that will take you from a weekend to a few days.
A good tip is to check out the current offerings at Alzbetiny Lazne (Elizabeth Baths), named after the Austrian Empress Elisabeth, known as Sisy. Alzbetiny Lazne is located at the end of Smetana Park near the Spa Hotel Thermal.
More attractions in Karlovy Vary
Looking for more things to do in Karlovy Vary? Here are some other options I didn't mention earlier in the article:
- Moser Glass Factory Museum; founded in 1893 by Ludwig Moser, focusing on the tradition of Bohemian crystal
- Becherovka Museum
- Church of St. Peter and Paul; impressive orthodox church with five golden domes
MY TIP: Visit the medieval Loket Castle. It's a wonderful day trip from Karlovy Vary!
I hope this comprehensive travel guide helps you plan your trip to Karlovy Vary, whether you come for a day, a weekend, or a longer stay!
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